Steve,
Love your Q & A.
I live in Moscow, Russia and have now for about 8 years.
I know you guys were here in 1991 or so. Got any good stories from the trip?
I’m really curious about how things have changed in the intervening years.
Oh, and you guys need to come back for a Russian tour!!
T in Moscow
T in Moscow
A few things stand out in my memory, which is admittedly hazy.
Here’s the condensed version:
Flew on a Friday from Luton (UK) to Moscow on a private jet with Metallica.
After a long flight, a long drive into town, and the uncomfortable realization that our hotel was ignoring a serious cockroach crisis, eleven of us, along with two interpreters, went to an exclusive Italian restaurant in the center of town. The only other patrons in the restaurant that night were aging Soviet military officers and their prostitutes. At least I think they were prostitutes. I don’t remember anyone saying anything about it being “Take Your Scantily Clad, Heavily Made Up, Cheap Perfume-Soaked Niece To Dinner Day”, but then again, my Russian was dodgy at best and a lot of what the interpreters were saying went right past me.
Over the course of a long evening, we drank countless cocktails and over 30 bottles of wine ( I am not exaggerating – it was one of the greatest drink ups I have ever been a part of) and stuffed ourselves like the capitalist pigs that we were. (When the charge showed up on the band credit card bill three months later, it totaled $36 – clearly not a great time for the ruble.)
At the end of the meal, Jason offered to tip the waiter in US dollars, knowing they held great value on the black market. He handed the guy $50. The waiter took it, his eyes exploded, and he immediately turned and ran through the front door of the restaurant. We didn’t see him again. The interpreter said “he won’t work again for years….that will cover all his needs for a long, long time.”
Incidentally, this was ONE MONTH after the August coup attempt. The USSR officially went out of business two months later. It was an incredibly stressful time in Moscow, and you could feel it in the air, instantly upon arrival, like humidity.
We all got up early on Saturday morning and went to Red Square. I was excited to see the Kremlin and St. Basil’s Cathedral, and was surprised to see that, up close, St. Basil’s looked to be in total disrepair. I assume it’s had a fresh paint job since then.
Along with my cousin, Jeffrey, who worked for the band then, I stood in line for over an hour to get a look at Lenin, lying in state since the 20′s. I had every intention of sneaking a photo of good old Vladimir Ilyich, despite the armed guards everywhere and the many signs saying that photos were forbidden. I had inexplicably, whilst struggling through the quagmire of one of the worst hangovers ever, convinced myself that I could get away with it. If I had only taken the time to learn how to turn my new camera’s flash off, I would have gone for it. And then, of course, I would have been arrested and imprisoned. So, you know, sometimes it pays not to read the manual.
All around Red Square, there were long queues leading to kiosks - hundreds, even thousands of people all waiting for free goods. We asked several people, via our interpreter, in various lines what they were waiting for, and not one of them ever knew. One guy said “I don’t know, but I am hoping for socks”.
The show later that day was insane. 600,000 people in a huge field. I have never seen anything like it. There were massive bonfires that looked to be miles away shooting up from the center of the throng. The funny thing was that the people in charge were apologizing to all the bands saying, “We were expecting 1,000,000 people….this is a disappointment.”
40,000 Red Army troops were on hand acting as security. By “acting as security”, I mean they occasionally rode on horseback into the middle of the crowd to beat the living shit out of large groups of fans for no discernible reason.
Our dressing room was an army tent. Chris stepped outside at one point to take a leak by a tree (the only option that we were aware of) and a soldier came up from behind and kicked him, kung fu style, right in the kidneys, and yelled at him in Russian. Chris took that to mean, “Excuse me, sir, could you not urinate here? Thanks, and have a great show!”
After our set, which truthfully I remember nothing about, we started trading swag with the soldiers. One Black Crowes T-Shirt was worth a Red Army overcoat and hat. When we ran out of Crowes shirts, they were asking for our jeans, belts, anything….and when we told them we had nothing else to trade, they just gave us more stuff anyway. For a couple dozen shirts, I swear they would have given us a tank. In fact, a soldier actually did attempt to give us a car. It was a total wreck, but the engine was running. I was all for hopping in and driving it into a tree or something cool like that, but I couldn’t get anyone to commit with me.
We got on a bus to leave the site for the airport, and it was immediately apparent that the guy in the driver’s seat didn’t know how to drive. Our tour manager, interpreter, and “driver” had a lengthy chat, during which time the actual driver turned up. We never figured out what the impostor had in mind - maybe he was hoping we wouldn’t notice an extra member of the entourage as we fled the country. He was thrown off the bus into the awaiting arms of some soldiers, and there’s no telling what they did to him.
True, manic chaos was the order of the day. It was incredibly unsettling.
At midnight we got back to the airport, our bags overstuffed with Soviet army uniforms. The security guards at the airport forbade us from leaving, accused us of stealing from the army, and picked up the phone to call the military police. Our tour manager put a couple of ten pound notes on the table. The guard hung up immediately, pocketed the cash, and personally escorted us to the tarmac.
Metallica had already been sitting on the plane for an hour or so, and Lars was furious that we had kept them waiting. He told us more than once that he had tried to get the pilots to leave, but his bandmates interceded on our behalf and made them wait for us.
After takeoff, Jeffrey (later known as the Dancing Uncle Sam Crowe from the Amorica or Bust Tour) grabbed the flight attendant PA microphone and proceeded to mercilessly mock Lars in a two hour burst of spontaneous comedic performance art that still stands as the funniest 120 minutes in Black Crowes touring history. No one laughed less than Lars, and no one laughed more than the other three guys in Metallica, which led to Hetfield offering Jeffrey a job on their upcoming tour. (Fall of ’91, Black Album just released – not a bad time to jump ship had Jeffery opted to go.) Hetfield asked me what Jeffrey did for us, and I said, “well, he sort of, um, he is supposed to, um, well, the truth is, he really doesn’t do anything”. To which he responded, “Well, I’ll double his pay to do nothing for us!” Jeffrey balked at the offer, and probably wonders to this day just what in the hell he was thinking.
(I ran into James in LA eight years later, and the first thing he said to me was, “How’s your cousin? He was the funniest dude I ever met!”)
We landed back in the UK at around 3 am local time and parted ways. Metallica went off to do whatever they were doing and we went off to start our first headlining UK tour.
All in all, a pretty wild two days.
Something tells me things have changed a little since then.
Спасибо, что написали
SG